Aspen, Crested Butte & Conundrum Hot Springs

WOW!!! What a trip I just got back from. First off, I spent a night in Winter Park last Wednesday then hosted a picnic in Cheeseman Park on Thursday as the Colorado Symphony Orchestra gave a free performance. Got up early Friday and drove to Aspen and met up with a friend Norma who followed us to the Conundrum trail head where we dropped off my car. She then drove us to the Maroon Bells area and dropped us off at the West Maroon trail head. So here we were, Ambereen and I, at the trail head on Friday morning at 10:30 am ready to embark upon an adventure when the Ranger I had spoken with earlier in the week happened by. It's recommended that you call the Ranger to get trail conditions before any hike. Carla talked about the snow fields and river crossings being bad. Carla noted our departure time by saying "you're bad". Seems we were supposed to be on the trail hours earlier to avoid the afternoon storm that is so prevalent in the high country this time of the year. We hiked past Maroon Lake and filled up with water at Crater lake then started our adventure.

We hiked for a few miles before our first water crossing where we had to take our boots off and put on Teva's as the water was a few feet deep. The trail got pretty muddy after that but the hike wasn't bad. After a few hours we got caught in an afternoon storm with hail and rain so we ducked under a pine tree for lunch. When the weather cleared we continued on towards West Maroon Pass. There weren't too many others on the trail but when we ran into people we asked where they were headed and what the conditions were like.

A few hours later we had the pass in our sights, along with some of the darkest storm clouds I've ever seen. We get up to a snow field and I saw a dude headed off the pass. He was wearing blue jeans, no shirt and carrying a gallon jug of water. He tells us there are five storms approaching and that we should turn around. I couldn't take him seriously as he also admitted he took a wrong turn and had already hiked 16 miles. We bid farewell and continued up the pass. It was pretty steep and I had to catch my breath frequently. The pass is approximately 12,500 feet high and the views were breathtaking. Unfortunateley, the blue jean hiker was dead on with his storm prediction, although we didn't need him to tell us what was so obvious. No, the bolt of lightning and the ensuing thunder clap did that, thank you very much. "Holy Shit" was all I could think. It was a moment when you knew you were alive. Albeit only for a few more moments if one chose to stand there, which we did not. We scrambled over the pass and down the other side when the sleet, wind and rain made it feel like a February storm blowing in. Where the hell were my gloves? Wow - was it wicked cold. A few hundred feet down I saw a snow bank and what appeared to be a cave with a face sticking out and a pack to the side. I actually started to upbuckle my pack to jump in! Got a little closer and realized that there was no pack and the snow cave was too small for a person - but there was a critter who took shelter. No time to investigate - MOVE!!!!

The storm blew over and we were left to the realization that upon decending from the pass we were in a valley full of wildflowers in full bloom. Our trail wound through it for four miles. And we had the place to ourselves. It was the most spectacular hike I've ever been on. Pictures can't compare to the beauty of this place.

At the end we ended up at Schofield Park where we happened upon a hiker just starting out. Turns out, we didn't make arrangements for anyone to pick us up! And we were 10 miles from the condo at Crested Butte where our friend were, and miles from cell reception. Ambereen wouldn't let her out of our sight and convinced her to give us a ride to where we could get reception. Nanette, a Federal Court Judge from Columbia, MO was our Trail Angel. She drove us to Mt Crested Butte where we got a ride to the condo and met up with the rest of our party. What a day!

Saturday and Sunday was spent hiking / mountain biking some of the trails in the area. Crested Butte is a fantastic ski town with a reputation as a mountain biking capital. Had a few good meals and plenty of wine Saturday evening. Even had a circle massage going with 8 participants. Good times.

Monday morning we had Jon, along with Mercury and Gratciella (their dogs) drop us off at the Judd Falls trail head. We hiked for around 6 miles to Copper Lake where we had lunch and refilled our water from the mountain stream. As I was filling the bladders, I noticed the trout spawning. There were many swimming right in front of me, right over rocks and towards the lake. There was a little pool where they did their shaking before moving on. The colors were fantastic and I bet they tasted great. Unfortunately, a couple appeared with tackle and started to fish. The woman hooked a big fat trout in about 30 seconds but wasn't up to speed on how to land it. Ended up snapping the line so here was a trout with a lure in it's mouth. Then she tied another fly and started again. Time to move on. Idiot. I mean, if you're going to fish at least know how to do it.

After lunch we headed up towards Triangle Pass. It was rocky and a long hike but as we went further the valley where we came from appeared. Once again, it was spectacular! We crossed a total of 6 snow fields, some of which were tricky and slippery. One went down to a small lake not on the map. We agreed that it would be a fun ride up until the point of entry into the water. Then not so fun. A little further up we realized a section of the trail was missing. A rock slide covered the trail and we had to climb through loose rocks for 100' or so. It was the trickiest part of the hike. We made it and the pass was 1/4 mile away at 12,900'.

After the pass we entered another meadow with wild flowers everywhere. We had a few miles to go before arriving at Conundrum Hot Springs and we were getting tired, although Ambereen was taking lots of pics. I was ready for a dip in the springs though! We made it there around 5 and I set up the tent, we grabbed a little wine and ran down the trail to the springs. It was the coolest place - rocks shored up the water and there was room for 30. At one end where the water flowed over it looked like an infinity pool with a view of the valley beyond. Wow. We talked to the Brit for a while until he realized he should move along. Ambereen and I were able to enjoy some one on one time in the tub as a late afternoon rain passed by. We were treated to a double rainbow over a mountain peak right next to the springs. I don't have the literary skills to convey how beautiful the experience was. Someone else may, but not me.

On Tuesday morning we got up, broke camp and proceeded down to the springs on back to the trail. There were 7 people in the water when we were walking by, not a stitch of clothing to be found. One guy asked if we were headed back and if I had any gas (for his stove) to spare. Time to pay it forward Nanette. We started our hike and had 9 miles to go before reaching my car. On the way we passed several people, including a few groups of women - hope the Brit got lucky!

We were getting tired and ready for the adventure to end. I knew Ambereen was tired when I noticed she was on my heels for miles (instead of lagging) and I asked if she was taking pictures she said "I've taken enough pictures!" I was tired as well. Whew. We did cross a few streams and walked right over a beaver dam (built in part - including an entrance - right on the path) but no sightings. We did pass the last snow field which was the remnant of an avalanche and the stream cut right under it. I walked to the edge so she could take my picture and she kept encouraging me to move closer. Was this a sign?

Final river crossing was cool - hooked our packs to a guide rope and pulled them over the water although it wasn't too deep it was a fun thing to do.

Made it back to the car and drove to Leadville where we had lunch at the Brass Ass. Best beer I've ever had!